Posts tagged Buying

Buying A Domain Name—It’s So Easy!

With the arrival of numerous domain registrars on the Web, buying a domain name has become a lot easy now. There is a mixed opinion on this theme. Some people say it is too difficult and cumbersome to buy a domain name. Rather, the whole procedure is time consuming and full of intricacies. On the other hand, some people say that it has become too easy to find and buy a domain name.

As a matter of fact, I am of the opinion that buying a domain name is too easy; however, buying it from a right registrar is a challenge. You need to pick up the best one for your domain needs from the gazillions of domain registrars widely available on the Internet.

Choosing a right domain registrar fosters better success for your website. For this buying a domain name is critical. Your domain acts like a cog in the wheel of your online success. So never get misguided by people, who say that getting a domain registered is too difficult a task.

You donâ??t need to be essentially a programmer or a developer or a veteran Internet user to buy a domain name. Find a good domain registrar and then get started. If youâ??re entangled in the dilemma of which registrar to go for, I can recommend some such as LimeDomains, FatCow, HostGator etc. from my years of web experience.

After having chosen a registrar, all you need to do is find a good domain name. There are two options available for you. Either you can seek help of domain generator tools to find a good domain name for your personal/professional website. Or else, you can seek suggestions from you domain registrar. It may be possible that the coveted domain name youâ??re looking forward to buy has already been taken by someone else. In that case, donâ??t be disheartened and go for an alternate suggested domain name.

Once youâ??re done with the task of finalizing your domain name, the task that remains is to follow the steps of registration laid out by your registrar. After following all the steps successfully and paying for registration, the domain gets booked on your name and the all the domain related information is sent to you via emails. The next step that remains to be done is to host your domain and choose a right web hosting provider.

With all the information handy on how to go about buying a domain name, you must be all set to proceed further. I wish you all the best in your online endeavor!

Ryan Hudson is an online marketing consultant and has worked with renowned organizations and published authors for more than 5 years now. With stupendous professional business writing related to the topic Web Hosting providers, Domain name, Domain name registrar, Web applications etc… And a penchant for traveling around the world, Ryan has got a lot to say.

Notebook Buying Guides

Multimedia keys

Switches and buttons

Buttons are switches should be present for the most common functions such as launching your browser, opening the media player or even switching WLAN on and off. Convenience is the name of the game here.

Switches and buttons

Dedicated keys

Some notebooks will have dedicated keys for some applications; these are usually configurable using software.

Dedicated keys

Screen size

When you choose a notebook one of the first considerations is what screen size do you need. A bigger screen may seem like the obvious choice, but notebooks are supposed to be portable. Imagine the horror of lugging around a 17-inch laptop. However, there may be those who do not need to carry their notebook with them everywhere and for such people a large notebook is definitely better. Such large-screen, bulky notebooks are called desktop replacements; mainly because they sit still on your desktop. Such notebooks are usually of a screen size of 16-inches and above. 17-inch notebooks are the most common.

A screen size of 15.4-inches is considered a de facto size for notebooks although some people regard this size to be a little too large for enabling true portability. 14.1-inch notebooks are becoming the new de facto size category; striking a good balance between flexibility in performance and size and weight.

The compact segment (aside from netbooks) is generally the hottest category because such notebooks bring extreme portability along with good performance. Notebooks with screen sizes of 11.1-inches, 12.1-inches and 13.3-inches are the most common ones. Generally, the smaller the screen gets, the costlier the notebook tends to become since shrinking of size means more attention to other factors such as heat dissipation and actual fitment of components.

Screen Size

Extending battery life

A few notebooks have a dedicated switch for switching between an integrated video solution and the discrete graphics solution. Since an onboard solution will consume one fifth the power this is handy when operating on battery juice.

Battery

Storage

Notebooks do not use the same hard drives that desktop PCs use. A smaller form factor, i.e. 2.5-inches, is prevalent. Notebook hard drives also come with different spindle speeds; faster speeds mean better performance at the cost of extra heat generation and more importantly possibly lower battery life. The three common speeds are 4,200 rpm, 5,400 rpm and 7,200 rpm. Stay away from 4,200 rpm drives; these are a little too slow for most users. 5,400 rpm is what you should look at; remember that 7,200 rpm drives are better, albeit costlier, and some very compact notebooks cannot utilize these hard drives for fear of overheating.

The Solid State Drive (SSD) is a relatively new technology that has first found its way into the notebook space. The biggest advantage with SSD is the lack of any moving parts; this allows SSDs to enjoy very low power consumption and yet have higher performance than any normal hard disk drive. In fact, the read and write speeds of SSDs are three times higher than the fastest HDDs around – a very solid performance increment. The only downside with SSD is that it is a new technology and is very costly. Data density is also not as high as HDDs. The highest capacity SSDs are in the region of 250 GB; these cost fifty times more than a hard drive of the same capacity. However, smaller capacities like 32 GB and 64 GB are a little more affordable and if you want extreme performance and better battery life then you may opt for an SSD storage based notebook. Many manufacturers are offering such drives as optional upgrades on various notebooks.

When it comes to storage there is no optimum figure although 160 GB is a good place to start. Real data hogs may need to invest in a 320 GB hard drive. Opt for a SATA drive if your notebook supports it; Serial ATA is a faster interface. Most notebooks today feature SATA connectivity.

Storage

USB Ports

USB ports are important for all notebook users. Although you may initially feel that a couple of USB ports are more than enough, a couple of days of use may change your opinion forever. There may be a case where a user may need to simultaneously connect four USB devices such as a USB mouse, printer, thumb drive and their PDA; this means that four USB ports would be required. We figure most regular users will need at least two ports; so given future expansion three ports would be just right.

Almost all notebooks come with memory card readers inbuilt; this is a real boon for anyone looking to hook up their memory cards directly to the notebook as it frees up one USB port. Users wanting to back up a lot of data fast may want to look at a faster alternative to USB; many notebooks come with FireWire ports and although rare, Laptops with E-SATA connects are also available.

USB Ports

Video Connectivity

A notebook will always have some form of video connectivity; depending on your usage this may not be a factor or it may significantly the buying decision. A D-Sub port is usually de facto for connection to a larger monitor. With large screen LCD monitors becoming common we figure DVI is one connector your notebook ought to have; this is because many of the newer LCD monitors do not have D-Sub connectors at all. Either of these connectors can also be used with a projector; this is useful for presentations. HDMI connectivity is also a huge plus since this allows direct connection with large LCD and plasma panels and is important if you wish your notebook to double as an HTPC.

John Wells provides you the best and latest information on Dell Inspiron 1525, if you want to Notebook Buying Guides. he suggest you log on to http://www.consumermate.com/

Buying A Notebook For College

Every year, before schools and college institutions begin their classes, students from around the country visit department stores and major electronics chains in an effort to get all those necessities that will allow them to complete successfully their studies. So, if you have recently been accepted to college and you are not exactly sure which your computing needs will be, buying a notebook computer is not a luxury purchase, but actually a necessity. In fact, anyone who has to cover frequent travel concerns, from college students to frequent business travelers, should possess a laptop, given the fact that it provides a mobile and light-weight computing experience for computer users around the world.

Recent research indicates that laptops are in fact used extensively as people need to own computer systems that are as mobile as they are. Buying an effective machine that can also be easy to carry around has increased considerably the laptop sales over the last decade, considering the lower manufacturer and assembly costs. Deals between hardware developers and software engineers have resulted in improved notebook systems that incorporate the ability of them being transferred easily from one place to another, as well as being able to compute much more than the main software functions, like reading and composing emails, operating spreadsheets, or using word processing applications. In fact, whether one needs to take work from one office location to another or do some work while onboard, today’s laptops can accomplish almost any task.

But if you are still contemplating on whether or not you actually do need a laptop to perform your computer-related college work, it is useful to consider the vast capabilities of these travel-ready devices as well as your current needs and ability to operate them. Owning a highly portable workstation can provide you with entertainment, productivity and ease of use. Forget about long messy cords and mouse pads. Easy to navigate by just using your fingers, today’s laptop models need no more than their rechargeable batteries or just an outlet to connect to their AC adapter and you are good to go.

Listening to music, playing games, watching videos, or writing a paper has never been easier. Laptop computers allow college students to manage their daily busy schedules instead of loosing time and effort. Some models offer screens that are only visible to the person that seats directly across them, eliminating the chances of one being able to visibly access your files and folders. Headphones and microphones, as used with desktop publishers are used to provide an efficient but considerate experience. Keep in mind that most of the available models come with software applications already in place making Internet browsing or working on a project a simple and easy process of starting up the machine. Finally, since laptop computers have become a mainstream device, many affordable models are offered in electronic superstores or are available to be ordered directly from the laptops manufacturers’ websites.

Kadence Buchanan writes articles on many topics including Education, Science, and Employment

How to be Safe in Your eBay Selling and Buying

The irony of eBay is that as it grows to be ever more successful, it draws the unsavory element of the internet towards it. I’m talking about people who make it their business to attempt to defraud you and me in our eBay and PayPal transactions. Of course, not all dodgy dealings on eBay are fraudulent. Some are just mischievous. Others are by chancres, who perhaps reckon their victims won’t be bothered to pursue them. Whoever causes it, it’s left to the targeted buyer or seller to try and sort out the problem. All that we as users can do is to be extremely vigilant and cautious in all our eBay and PayPal activities. Here is a list of practical steps, in no particular order, which buyers and sellers can take to help avoid becoming the next victim. Hopefully you are already aware of some of these. It doesn’t necessarily follow that if one of these applies the auction or person is fraudulent. But if you use your head, and build up a view of the overall transaction based upon a number of these factors, you will reduce your chances of getting conned. a) Stock photos and descriptions Because they don’t have the item they are “selling”, some fraudsters use a stock photograph of the item. And they will probably use the manufacturer’s product description too. So, stock photos and no original description might be a sign. Search for other auctions by the same seller, and see if they are brazen enough to advertise the same item more than once. b) A price too good to be true often isn’t true A fraudster wants your money quickly, so you may find they offer to close their auction early with you as the “winner” having bid a price which you know to be somewhat of a bargain. Why would anyone close their auction early if the price hadn’t reached market levels? I’ll give you one guess. c) High value or high volume, newly registered sellers Although the vast majority of new sellers are genuine and honest, be cautious of buying from people selling high value items in bulk, very early on in their eBay career. This pattern isn’t quite normal. Think back to your own first sales. You would have been tentative, and probably have tried single, low value items initially. So, a new seller fitting this profile may be someone who has perhaps been previously suspended and has registered another ID. d) 1 day listings Although 1 day listing are used by genuine sellers who have more than one item or who want a quick sale, unfortunately this duration is attractive to fraudsters too. They sometimes use 1 day auction duration to gain a quick sale before their actions can be reported and acted upon. So, be extra wary on auctions with 1 day listing. e) Invitations to trade off-eBay This is a classic ploy of fraudsters. Having made some kind of contact with you or you with them, they will invite you to purchase or to sell off eBay i.e. without using eBay’s auction services. The attraction here to the fraudster is that they can drive the transaction along the lines they prefer, whether that is escrow, PayPal etc. Another reason why trading off eBay is not a good idea is that you have to keep your own formal records of the transaction, and you forfeit any cover from eBay buyer protection and PayPal buyer protection. Plus, and this might be a minor point, but you will not be able to leave feedback to let others know your experience with this seller/buyer. f) Payment methods with no recourse Fraudsters prefer to chose payment methods in which the buyer has no protection, like wire transfers where the buyer has no way of tracing where the money is going. Western Union Money Transfers and BidPay are favorites and should be totally avoided. Postal orders are similar although they are a popular payment method among the genuine sellers as they require no clearance time. Bank transfers and cheques can only provide the possibility of your bank investigating the details of the account the money was transferred into. For the best protection use PayPal and fund with a Credit Card. Note there are limits on eBay and PayPal protection, and you should make yourself aware of what these are. g) Unusual sales pattern If your seller’s feedback indicates that they normally deal in collectables, DVDs or other specific items, be suspicious that they are suddenly listing laptops, plasma TVs or other high value items. The change may indicate that this seller’s account has been hijacked. h) Bad English gives you a pointer Some fraudsters operate from abroad but pretend to be in UK or USA. As they aren’t particularly adept at the English language they might use a translation tool like Babelfish to create their emails to you. So, watch out for emails that are not good English. In itself, it doesn’t prove anything; there are plenty of genuine eBay sellers for whom English is not their first language. But it might add to further evidence you have. I) Location Location Location In the case of lazy fraudsters you might find their locations don’t match up. By that I mean the auction says the goods are in the UK, but the seller’s ID details show their location to be, say, Ukraine. This is not a good sign. Often in these cases if you contact these sellers you will receive an excuse as to why the item is not in the UK, and therefore can’t be collected in person. In short, if an auction says the item is in the UK and the seller says that it is not, I would avoid the auction. And don’t forget to cross check with their PayPal account, and see in which country this resides. j) Ask questions Always, always ask your seller a question. Any question. Their response, if you receive one, will help you judge how genuine the seller is. Beware auctions that carry a message asking you to contact the seller via a given email address as opposed to via the ‘Ask seller a question’ link. This could be an account hijacker trying to prevent buyers from ‘Asking the seller a question’. They want to stop this from happening because such questions could be routed to the real account owner. k) “EBay can vouch for me” email A warning about a relatively new tactic used by fraudsters. If you are proving hard to land as a buyer/seller, they may claim they can get eBay to email you proof of their validity so that you can trust them. EBay, of course, will NEVER do this. The email sent out, however authentic looking is fake and is designed to get you to part with your money or your goods. This applies equally to Square Trade and PayPal. They will never email you certifying the genuineness of anyone. l)A PayPal warning There are fraudsters who use stolen PayPal accounts to accept payments. To lower the possibility of this, check your seller’s location as shown in eBay, and then see if it is one of PayPal’s permitted countries by clicking here: http://www.workwinners.com/nlr701.htm. If PayPal don’t offer their service in the country that the seller resides, be very wary. m) Passwords Never have the same password on your eBay and PayPal accounts. Or indeed on any other financial or personal site. Change your passwords every 30-60 days on both eBay and PayPal. n) Escrow If your seller asks you to use escrow, and proposes an escrow company they’ve used before, this is a clear indication they are fraudulent. There are many fake escrow sites which will take your money fraudulently. The only escrow site recommended by eBay is http://www.escrow.com. An alternative in the UK is http://www.auctionpix.co.uk Please don’t be tempted to use any other escrow company, however professional looking their websites might be. It is a fact that 99% of escrow companies on the internet are fraudulent. They are set up solely to defraud money out of unsuspecting buyers, and to get goods without paying for them from unsuspecting sellers. o) Pointers in feedback Try to read the positive feedback as well as the negative. Read the way your seller responds to negative feedback as this will often give you an idea of how the seller will react if something goes badly wrong. If the seller is offering high value goods, be wary if their feedback has been built up quickly from low value purchases. Also, if the overall rating is good, but there are a disproportionate number of negatives in recent days/weeks, this might indicate the account has been taken over. Finally, be aware that feedback is not the guarantee it once was. Feedback can easily be manufactured. Also, if the user ID has been hijacked, you’ll be reading the feedback of the original account owner, not the person with whom you’re currently dealing! p) Credit Card payment for high value items or for amounts of money you can’t afford to lose, make sure you pay by credit card which has online fraud protection. This will give you some recourse if the seller is fraudulent. In this context, paying via PayPal is not the same. PayPal do have a buyer protection scheme, but there are criteria which the eBay auction has to satisfy in order to qualify. Even if the transaction qualifies, PayPal’s standard protection currently has a maximum value of $1,000. Note that payment by debit card provides zero protection. q) Address and Telephone check Use the Ask the seller a question link, and request they email you with their address and telephone number. Any reputable seller will give you their address and telephone number. When you get the number, call it, and see if you get through to the genuine seller. r) Keystroke capturing virus This is a computer virus which you inadvertently download onto your PC. Its task is to capture the keystrokes you make, and to send them to the virus placer. The fraudster then uses pattern recognition software to identify and extract personal information, like username, password, credit card numbers etc. To avoid this happening to you, it is wise to have good, up-to-date virus, firewall and spyware checking software on your PC. Here is where you can get free software for each of these functions: Virus protection – http://free.grisoft.com/freeweb.php/doc/2/ Firewall – http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/products/znalm/comparison.jsp?lid=ho_za Spyware checking – http://www.lavasoft.com/support/download/ s) Shill bidding Shill bidding is where people work in cahoots to inflate the bidding on an item. A seller has a “partner” who makes bids on the seller’s items with a view to bumping up the bid price. They have no intention of buying the item. Fortunately, shill bidders and their associated seller can be stupid. The shill bidder will usually makes bids on other items from the same seller. Here’s how to check to see if shill bidding is a feature of a particular seller. First, look at the seller’s closed auctions over the last 30 days. If most of the closed auctions have no bids, it is unlikely the seller has shill bidders working with them. If all of the closed auctions have bids, take a look at the bid history. See if the same bidder appears in the list of bidders, usually with aggressive bidding and normally at the start of the auction. If so, you may have uncovered a shill operation, so avoid that seller’s auctions. t) Keep your transaction information Keep your own record of the transaction when you’re buying. Don’t just rely on eBay. You want a record of the seller’s identification, the item description, and emails sent and received, plus the time, date and price of your bid. u) “I noticed your bid….” Never deal with anyone who contacts you after seeing your bid on another auction. They will say something like, “I saw you bidding on that digital camera. I have the same model available for sale. I don’t have time to list it on eBay. It has more accessories than the one you lost out on. You can have it for xyz.” If you bite, they’ll probably take you down the fake escrow route. Also, if you entertain this proposition, you’re operating outside of eBay and therefore have no auction protection whatsoever. v) Changed eBay ID Never deal with anyone who has a changed ID icon next to their name. This icon means they’ve changed their ID in the last 30 days. Few legitimate people change their eBay ID. When was the last time you changed yours? There’s a 1% chance that an ID change is genuine, but 99% that it is fraudulent. Why take the risk? w) Changed email address mid-stream If a seller or buyer changes their email address on you in the middle of a transaction, stop dealing with them. It is likely their previous email account was closed down due to some irregularity – such as a previous victim reported them. If you think about it, why would any genuine buyer or seller change their email address whilst corresponding on a transaction they wish to conclude expeditiously? x) Complications Never get involved in any transaction where the seller/buyer tries to introduce a third person into the financial arrangements. They might ask you to pay xyz, who will then pay the seller, and you will receive a discount or commission for your co-operation. Such proposals are always fraudulent. They prey on greed. Don’t be tempted. y) Time is of the essence This is a scam which is has more potential for success than traditional phishing attacks, as it is time sensitive. The fraudster searches for high value auctions that have just ended. The bid history for an auction contains hyperlinks to each bidder. The fraudster checks to see if the winning bidder is selling any items of their own. If so, they go to that auction and embed a request for payment from the first auction within a question for seller. This works because winning bidders are expecting request for payment shortly after an auction ends. A variation of this is to offer a bidder a “second chance”. This time the “Ask the seller a question” email pretends that the real winner has backed out, and offers the item at a lower price. The buyer, believing the story, is lured into paying to whom they believe is a genuine seller. Many eBayers have heard of the second chance system, but have no experience of it. This unfamiliarity coupled with the fact that a few weeks might have passed, makes this an effective method for fraudsters. The moral of this story is never get involved in any transaction which arrives in your inbox via the Ask the Seller a Question feature. z) EBay IDs Never us your email address as your eBay ID, or part of your eBay ID. Fraudsters have software which monitors internet traffic looking for information such as this. If your eBay ID and email address are the same, it is simple for a fraudster to plausibly communicate with other eBay members in your name. That’s all in my list. If you have any further ideas on how to prevent fraudulent transactions on eBay, please let me know and I will promote these through future newsletters. The irony of eBay is that as it grows to be ever more successful, it draws the unsavory element of the internet towards it. I’m talking about people who make it their business to attempt to defraud you and me in our eBay and PayPal transactions. Of course, not all dodgy dealings on eBay are fraudulent. Some are just mischievous. Others are by chancres, who perhaps reckon their victims won’t be bothered to pursue them. Whoever causes it, it’s left to the targeted buyer or seller to try and sort out the problem. All that we as users can do is to be extremely vigilant and cautious in all our eBay and PayPal activities. Here is a list of practical steps, in no particular order, which buyers and sellers can take to help avoid becoming the next victim. Hopefully you are already aware of some of these. It doesn’t necessarily follow that if one of these applies the auction or person is fraudulent. But if you use your head, and build up a view of the overall transaction based upon a number of these factors, you will reduce your chances of getting conned. a) Stock photos and descriptions Because they don’t have the item they are “selling”, some fraudsters use a stock photograph of the item. And they will probably use the manufacturer’s product description too. So, stock photos and no original description might be a sign. Search for other auctions by the same seller, and see if they are brazen enough to advertise the same item more than once. b) A price too good to be true often isn’t true A fraudster wants your money quickly, so you may find they offer to close their auction early with you as the “winner” having bid a price which you know to be somewhat of a bargain. Why would anyone close their auction early if the price hadn’t reached market levels? I’ll give you one guess. c) High value or high volume, newly registered sellers Although the vast majority of new sellers are genuine and honest, be cautious of buying from people selling high value items in bulk, very early on in their eBay career. This pattern isn’t quite normal. Think back to your own first sales. You would have been tentative, and probably have tried single, low value items initially. So, a new seller fitting this profile may be someone who has perhaps been previously suspended and has registered another ID. d) 1 day listings Although 1 day listing are used by genuine sellers who have more than one item or who want a quick sale, unfortunately this duration is attractive to fraudsters too. They sometimes use 1 day auction duration to gain a quick sale before their actions can be reported and acted upon. So, be extra wary on auctions with 1 day listing. e) Invitations to trade off-eBay This is a classic ploy of fraudsters. Having made some kind of contact with you or you with them, they will invite you to purchase or to sell off eBay i.e. without using eBay’s auction services. The attraction here to the fraudster is that they can drive the transaction along the lines they prefer, whether that is escrow, PayPal etc. Another reason why trading off eBay is not a good idea is that you have to keep your own formal records of the transaction, and you forfeit any cover from eBay buyer protection and PayPal buyer protection. Plus, and this might be a minor point, but you will not be able to leave feedback to let others know your experience with this seller/buyer. f) Payment methods with no recourse Fraudsters prefer to chose payment methods in which the buyer has no protection, like wire transfers where the buyer has no way of tracing where the money is going. Western Union Money Transfers and BidPay are favorites and should be totally avoided. Postal orders are similar although they are a popular payment method among the genuine sellers as they require no clearance time. Bank transfers and cheques can only provide the possibility of your bank investigating the details of the account the money was transferred into. For the best protection use PayPal and fund with a Credit Card. Note there are limits on eBay and PayPal protection, and you should make yourself aware of what these are. g) Unusual sales pattern If your seller’s feedback indicates that they normally deal in collectables, DVDs or other specific items, be suspicious that they are suddenly listing laptops, plasma TVs or other high value items. The change may indicate that this seller’s account has been hijacked. h) Bad English gives you a pointer Some fraudsters operate from abroad but pretend to be in UK or USA. As they aren’t particularly adept at the English language they might use a translation tool like Babelfish to create their emails to you. So, watch out for emails that are not good English. In itself, it doesn’t prove anything; there are plenty of genuine eBay sellers for whom English is not their first language. But it might add to further evidence you have. I) Location Location Location In the case of lazy fraudsters you might find their locations don’t match up. By that I mean the auction says the goods are in the UK, but the seller’s ID details show their location to be, say, Ukraine. This is not a good sign. Often in these cases if you contact these sellers you will receive an excuse as to why the item is not in the UK, and therefore can’t be collected in person. In short, if an auction says the item is in the UK and the seller says that it is not, I would avoid the auction. And don’t forget to cross check with their PayPal account, and see in which country this resides. j) Ask questions Always, always ask your seller a question. Any question. Their response, if you receive one, will help you judge how genuine the seller is. Beware auctions that carry a message asking you to contact the seller via a given email address as opposed to via the ‘Ask seller a question’ link. This could be an account hijacker trying to prevent buyers from ‘Asking the seller a question’. They want to stop this from happening because such questions could be routed to the real account owner. k) “EBay can vouch for me” email A warning about a relatively new tactic used by fraudsters. If you are proving hard to land as a buyer/seller, they may claim they can get eBay to email you proof of their validity so that you can trust them. EBay, of course, will NEVER do this. The email sent out, however authentic looking is fake and is designed to get you to part with your money or your goods. This applies equally to Square Trade and PayPal. They will never email you certifying the genuineness of anyone. l)A PayPal warning There are fraudsters who use stolen PayPal accounts to accept payments. To lower the possibility of this, check your seller’s location as shown in eBay, and then see if it is one of PayPal’s permitted countries by clicking here: http://www.workwinners.com/nlr701.htm. If PayPal don’t offer their service in the country that the seller resides, be very wary. m) Passwords Never have the same password on your eBay and PayPal accounts. Or indeed on any other financial or personal site. Change your passwords every 30-60 days on both eBay and PayPal. n) Escrow If your seller asks you to use escrow, and proposes an escrow company they’ve used before, this is a clear indication they are fraudulent. There are many fake escrow sites which will take your money fraudulently. The only escrow site recommended by eBay is http://www.escrow.com. An alternative in the UK is http://www.auctionpix.co.uk Please don’t be tempted to use any other escrow company, however professional looking their websites might be. It is a fact that 99% of escrow companies on the internet are fraudulent. They are set up solely to defraud money out of unsuspecting buyers, and to get goods without paying for them from unsuspecting sellers. o) Pointers in feedback Try to read the positive feedback as well as the negative. Read the way your seller responds to negative feedback as this will often give you an idea of how the seller will react if something goes badly wrong. If the seller is offering high value goods, be wary if their feedback has been built up quickly from low value purchases. Also, if the overall rating is good, but there are a disproportionate number of negatives in recent days/weeks, this might indicate the account has been taken over. Finally, be aware that feedback is not the guarantee it once was. Feedback can easily be manufactured. Also, if the user ID has been hijacked, you’ll be reading the feedback of the original account owner, not the person with whom you’re currently dealing! p) Credit Card payment for high value items or for amounts of money you can’t afford to lose, make sure you pay by credit card which has online fraud protection. This will give you some recourse if the seller is fraudulent. In this context, paying via PayPal is not the same. PayPal do have a buyer protection scheme, but there are criteria which the eBay auction has to satisfy in order to qualify. Even if the transaction qualifies, PayPal’s standard protection currently has a maximum value of $1,000. Note that payment by debit card provides zero protection. q) Address and Telephone check Use the Ask the seller a question link, and request they email you with their address and telephone number. Any reputable seller will give you their address and telephone number. When you get the number, call it, and see if you get through to the genuine seller. r) Keystroke capturing virus This is a computer virus which you inadvertently download onto your PC. Its task is to capture the keystrokes you make, and to send them to the virus placer. The fraudster then uses pattern recognition software to identify and extract personal information, like username, password, credit card numbers etc. To avoid this happening to you, it is wise to have good, up-to-date virus, firewall and spyware checking software on your PC. Here is where you can get free software for each of these functions: Virus protection – http://free.grisoft.com/freeweb.php/doc/2/ Firewall – http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/products/znalm/comparison.jsp?lid=ho_za Spyware checking – http://www.lavasoft.com/support/download/ s) Shill bidding Shill bidding is where people work in cahoots to inflate the bidding on an item. A seller has a “partner” who makes bids on the seller’s items with a view to bumping up the bid price. They have no intention of buying the item. Fortunately, shill bidders and their associated seller can be stupid. The shill bidder will usually makes bids on other items from the same seller. Here’s how to check to see if shill bidding is a feature of a particular seller. First, look at the seller’s closed auctions over the last 30 days. If most of the closed auctions have no bids, it is unlikely the seller has shill bidders working with them. If all of the closed auctions have bids, take a look at the bid history. See if the same bidder appears in the list of bidders, usually with aggressive bidding and normally at the start of the auction. If so, you may have uncovered a shill operation, so avoid that seller’s auctions. t) Keep your transaction information Keep your own record of the transaction when you’re buying. Don’t just rely on eBay. You want a record of the seller’s identification, the item description, and emails sent and received, plus the time, date and price of your bid. u) “I noticed your bid….” Never deal with anyone who contacts you after seeing your bid on another auction. They will say something like, “I saw you bidding on that digital camera. I have the same model available for sale. I don’t have time to list it on eBay. It has more accessories than the one you lost out on. You can have it for xyz.” If you bite, they’ll probably take you down the fake escrow route. Also, if you entertain this proposition, you’re operating outside of eBay and therefore have no auction protection whatsoever. v) Changed eBay ID Never deal with anyone who has a changed ID icon next to their name. This icon means they’ve changed their ID in the last 30 days. Few legitimate people change their eBay ID. When was the last time you changed yours? There’s a 1% chance that an ID change is genuine, but 99% that it is fraudulent. Why take the risk? w) Changed email address mid-stream If a seller or buyer changes their email address on you in the middle of a transaction, stop dealing with them. It is likely their previous email account was closed down due to some irregularity – such as a previous victim reported them. If you think about it, why would any genuine buyer or seller change their email address whilst corresponding on a transaction they wish to conclude expeditiously? x) Complications Never get involved in any transaction where the seller/buyer tries to introduce a third person into the financial arrangements. They might ask you to pay xyz, who will then pay the seller, and you will receive a discount or commission for your co-operation. Such proposals are always fraudulent. They prey on greed. Don’t be tempted. y) Time is of the essence This is a scam which is has more potential for success than traditional phishing attacks, as it is time sensitive. The fraudster searches for high value auctions that have just ended. The bid history for an auction contains hyperlinks to each bidder. The fraudster checks to see if the winning bidder is selling any items of their own. If so, they go to that auction and embed a request for payment from the first auction within a question for seller. This works because winning bidders are expecting request for payment shortly after an auction ends. A variation of this is to offer a bidder a “second chance”. This time the “Ask the seller a question” email pretends that the real winner has backed out, and offers the item at a lower price. The buyer, believing the story, is lured into paying to whom they believe is a genuine seller. Many eBayers have heard of the second chance system, but have no experience of it. This unfamiliarity coupled with the fact that a few weeks might have passed, makes this an effective method for fraudsters. The moral of this story is never get involved in any transaction which arrives in your inbox via the Ask the Seller a Question feature. z) EBay IDs Never us your email address as your eBay ID, or part of your eBay ID. Fraudsters have software which monitors internet traffic looking for information such as this. If your eBay ID and email address are the same, it is simple for a fraudster to plausibly communicate with other eBay members in your name. That’s all in my list. If you have any further ideas on how to prevent fraudulent transactions on eBay, please let me know and I will promote these through future newsletters.

The irony of eBay is that as it grows to be ever more successful, it draws the unsavory element of the internet towards it. I’m talking about people who make it their business to attempt to defraud you and me in our eBay and PayPal transactions.

Of course, not all dodgy dealings on eBay are fraudulent. Some are just mischievous. Others are by chancres, who perhaps reckon their victims won’t be bothered to pursue them.

Whoever causes it, it’s left to the targeted buyer or seller to try and sort out the problem. All that we as users can do is to be extremely vigilant and cautious in all our eBay and PayPal activities.

Here is a list of practical steps, in no particular order, which buyers and sellers can take to help avoid becoming the next victim.

Hopefully you are already aware of some of these. It doesn’t necessarily follow that if one of these applies the auction or person is fraudulent. But if you use your head, and build up a view of the overall transaction based upon a number of these factors, you will reduce your chances of getting conned.

a) Stock photos and descriptions

Because they don’t have the item they are “selling”, some fraudsters use a stock photograph of the item. And they will probably use the manufacturer’s product description too. So, stock photos and no original description might be a sign. Search for other auctions by the same seller, and see if they are brazen enough to advertise the same item more than once.

b) A price too good to be true often isn’t true

A fraudster wants your money quickly, so you may find they offer to close their auction early with you as the “winner” having bid a price which you know to be somewhat of a bargain. Why would anyone close their auction early if the price hadn’t reached market levels? I’ll give you one guess.

c) High value or high volume, newly registered sellers

Although the vast majority of new sellers are genuine and honest, be cautious of buying from people selling high value items in bulk, very early on in their eBay career. This pattern isn’t quite normal. Think back to your own first sales. You would have been tentative, and probably have tried single, low value items initially. So, a new seller fitting this profile may be someone who has perhaps been previously suspended and has registered another ID.

d) 1 day listings

Although 1 day listing are used by genuine sellers who have more than one item or who want a quick sale, unfortunately this duration is attractive to fraudsters too. They sometimes use 1 day auction duration to gain a quick sale before their actions can be reported and acted upon. So, be extra wary on auctions with 1 day listing.

e) Invitations to trade off-eBay

This is a classic ploy of fraudsters. Having made some kind of contact with you or you with them, they will invite you to purchase or to sell off eBay i.e. without using eBay’s auction services. The attraction here to the fraudster is that they can drive the transaction along the lines they prefer, whether that is escrow, PayPal etc. Another reason why trading off eBay is not a good idea is that you have to keep your own formal records of the transaction, and you forfeit any cover from eBay buyer protection and PayPal buyer protection. Plus, and this might be a minor point, but you will not be able to leave feedback to let others know your experience with this seller/buyer.

f) Payment methods with no recourse

Fraudsters prefer to chose payment methods in which the buyer has no protection, like wire transfers where the buyer has no way of tracing where the money is going. Western Union Money Transfers and BidPay are favorites and should be totally avoided. Postal orders are similar although they are a popular payment method among the genuine sellers as they require no clearance time. Bank transfers and cheques can only provide the possibility of your bank investigating the details of the account the money was transferred into. For the best protection use PayPal and fund with a Credit Card. Note there are limits on eBay and PayPal protection, and you should make yourself aware of what these are.

g) Unusual sales pattern

If your seller’s feedback indicates that they normally deal in collectables, DVDs or other specific items, be suspicious that they are suddenly listing laptops, plasma TVs or other high value items. The change may indicate that this seller’s account has been hijacked.

h) Bad English gives you a pointer

Some fraudsters operate from abroad but pretend to be in UK or USA. As they aren’t particularly adept at the English language they might use a translation tool like Babelfish to create their emails to you. So, watch out for emails that are not good English. In itself, it doesn’t prove anything; there are plenty of genuine eBay sellers for whom English is not their first language. But it might add to further evidence you have.

I) Location Location Location

In the case of lazy fraudsters you might find their locations don’t match up. By that I mean the auction says the goods are in the UK, but the seller’s ID details show their location to be, say, Ukraine. This is not a good sign. Often in these cases if you contact these sellers you will receive an excuse as to why the item is not in the UK, and therefore can’t be collected in person. In short, if an auction says the item is in the UK and the seller says that it is not, I would avoid the auction. And don’t forget to cross check with their PayPal account, and see in which country this resides.

j) Ask questions

Always, always ask your seller a question. Any question. Their response, if you receive one, will help you judge how genuine the seller is. Beware auctions that carry a message asking you to contact the seller via a given email address as opposed to via the ‘Ask seller a question’ link. This could be an account hijacker trying to prevent buyers from ‘Asking the seller a question’. They want to stop this from happening because such questions could be routed to the real account owner.

k) “EBay can vouch for me” email

A warning about a relatively new tactic used by fraudsters. If you are proving hard to land as a buyer/seller, they may claim they can get eBay to email you proof of their validity so that you can trust them. EBay, of course, will NEVER do this. The email sent out, however authentic looking is fake and is designed to get you to part with your money or your goods. This applies equally to Square Trade and PayPal. They will never email you certifying the genuineness of anyone.

l)A PayPal warning

There are fraudsters who use stolen PayPal accounts to accept payments. To lower the possibility of this, check your seller’s location as shown in eBay, and then see if it is one of PayPal’s permitted countries by clicking here: http://www.workwinners.com/nlr701.htm. If PayPal don’t offer their service in the country that the seller resides, be very wary.

m) Passwords

Never have the same password on your eBay and PayPal accounts. Or indeed on any other financial or personal site. Change your passwords every 30-60 days on both eBay and PayPal.

n) Escrow

If your seller asks you to use escrow, and proposes an escrow company they’ve used before, this is a clear indication they are fraudulent. There are many fake escrow sites which will take your money fraudulently. The only escrow site recommended by eBay is http://www.escrow.com. An alternative in the UK is http://www.auctionpix.co.uk Please don’t be tempted to use any other escrow company, however professional looking their websites might be. It is a fact that 99% of escrow companies on the internet are fraudulent. They are set up solely to defraud money out of unsuspecting buyers, and to get goods without paying for them from unsuspecting sellers.

o) Pointers in feedback

Try to read the positive feedback as well as the negative. Read the way your seller responds to negative feedback as this will often give you an idea of how the seller will react if something goes badly wrong. If the seller is offering high value goods, be wary if their feedback has been built up quickly from low value purchases. Also, if the overall rating is good, but there are a disproportionate number of negatives in recent days/weeks, this might indicate the account has been taken over. Finally, be aware that feedback is not the guarantee it once was. Feedback can easily be manufactured. Also, if the user ID has been hijacked, you’ll be reading the feedback of the original account owner, not the person with whom you’re currently dealing!

p) Credit Card payment

for high value items or for amounts of money you can’t afford to lose, make sure you pay by credit card which has online fraud protection. This will give you some recourse if the seller is fraudulent. In this context, paying via PayPal is not the same. PayPal do have a buyer protection scheme, but there are criteria which the eBay auction has to satisfy in order to qualify. Even if the transaction qualifies, PayPal’s standard protection currently has a maximum value of $1,000. Note that payment by debit card provides zero protection.

q) Address and Telephone check

Use the Ask the seller a question link, and request they email you with their address and telephone number. Any reputable seller will give you their address and telephone number. When you get the number, call it, and see if you get through to the genuine seller.

r) Keystroke capturing virus

This is a computer virus which you inadvertently download onto your PC. Its task is to capture the keystrokes you make, and to send them to the virus placer. The fraudster then uses pattern recognition software to identify and extract personal information, like username, password, credit card numbers etc. To avoid this happening to you, it is wise to have good, up-to-date virus, firewall and spyware checking software on your PC. Here is where you can get free software for each of these functions:

Virus protection – http://free.grisoft.com/freeweb.php/doc/2/

Firewall – http://www.zonelabs.com/store/content/company/products/znalm/comparison.jsp?lid=ho_za

Spyware checking – http://www.lavasoft.com/support/download/

s) Shill bidding

Shill bidding is where people work in cahoots to inflate the bidding on an item. A seller has a “partner” who makes bids on the seller’s items with a view to bumping up the bid price. They have no intention of buying the item. Fortunately, shill bidders and their associated seller can be stupid. The shill bidder will usually makes bids on other items from the same seller. Here’s how to check to see if shill bidding is a feature of a particular seller. First, look at the seller’s closed auctions over the last 30 days. If most of the closed auctions have no bids, it is unlikely the seller has shill bidders working with them. If all of the closed auctions have bids, take a look at the bid history. See if the same bidder appears in the list of bidders, usually with aggressive bidding and normally at the start of the auction. If so, you may have uncovered a shill operation, so avoid that seller’s auctions.

t) Keep your transaction information

Keep your own record of the transaction when you’re buying. Don’t just rely on eBay. You want a record of the seller’s identification, the item description, and emails sent and received, plus the time, date and price of your bid.

u) “I noticed your bid….”

Never deal with anyone who contacts you after seeing your bid on another auction. They will say something like, “I saw you bidding on that digital camera. I have the same model available for sale. I don’t have time to list it on eBay. It has more accessories than the one you lost out on. You can have it for xyz.” If you bite, they’ll probably take you down the fake escrow route. Also, if you entertain this proposition, you’re operating outside of eBay and therefore have no auction protection whatsoever.

v) Changed eBay ID

Never deal with anyone who has a changed ID icon next to their name. This icon means they’ve changed their ID in the last 30 days. Few legitimate people change their eBay ID. When was the last time you changed yours? There’s a 1% chance that an ID change is genuine, but 99% that it is fraudulent. Why take the risk?

w) Changed email address mid-stream

If a seller or buyer changes their email address on you in the middle of a transaction, stop dealing with them. It is likely their previous email account was closed down due to some irregularity – such as a previous victim reported them. If you think about it, why would any genuine buyer or seller change their email address whilst corresponding on a transaction they wish to conclude expeditiously?

x) Complications

Never get involved in any transaction where the seller/buyer tries to introduce a third person into the financial arrangements. They might ask you to pay xyz, who will then pay the seller, and you will receive a discount or commission for your co-operation. Such proposals are always fraudulent. They prey on greed. Don’t be tempted.

y) Time is of the essence

This is a scam which is has more potential for success than traditional phishing attacks, as it is time sensitive. The fraudster searches for high value auctions that have just ended. The bid history for an auction contains hyperlinks to each bidder. The fraudster checks to see if the winning bidder is selling any items of their own. If so, they go to that auction and embed a request for payment from the first auction within a question for seller. This works because winning bidders are expecting request for payment shortly after an auction ends. A variation of this is to offer a bidder a “second chance”. This time the “Ask the seller a question” email pretends that the real winner has backed out, and offers the item at a lower price. The buyer, believing the story, is lured into paying to whom they believe is a genuine seller. Many eBayers have heard of the second chance system, but have no experience of it. This unfamiliarity coupled with the fact that a few weeks might have passed, makes this an effective method for fraudsters. The moral of this story is never get involved in any transaction which arrives in your inbox via the Ask the Seller a Question feature.

z) EBay IDs

Never us your email address as your eBay ID, or part of your eBay ID. Fraudsters have software which monitors internet traffic looking for information such as this. If your eBay ID and email address are the same, it is simple for a fraudster to plausibly communicate with other eBay members in your name.

That’s all in my list. If you have any further ideas on how to prevent fraudulent transactions on eBay, please let me know and I will promote these through future newsletters.

For more useful tips & hints, please browse for more information at our website :- http://www.adsence-dollar-factory.com
http://www.100earningtips.com

Things to Consider at the Time of Buying Memory Foam Mattress and Mattresses

When Memory foam first came out in the market, it was known as Tempur-foam. The substance was created by NASA to reduce gravitational forces on astronauts during take-off and landing, however the strong smell proved impractical for the tiny closed in areas, so the idea was bought by a Swedish company and turned into what we know today as Tempur-Pedic. Memory Foam is made with a polyurethane material. In order to increase its mass, other chemicals are added which increases its viscosity level. The end result is a material that becomes viscous or pliable when warmed, allowing it to contour to the body.


A solid Memory Foam Mattress reacts with body heat and within a few minutes the product forms around the shape of the body. Many people use more than one position to sleep and will find the memory foam beds to be supportive in almost any position. Typically, firm Mattresses are recommended for people sleeping on back and stomach, as soft mattresses might harm their backs due to unnatural angles. Those sleeping on sides, softer mattresses are suggested. With memory foam, it will adjust naturally by the weight placed on the bed, distributing it evenly across the surface and eliminating pressure points in and position.


The Memory foam mattress is typically a compromise to both firm and soft mattresses, but it is still available in multiple firmnesses. The Memory Foam mattress is available in nearly every imaginable of size including, twin, twin long, double, full long, queen, split queen, king, split king, California queen, California king and super king sizes. Memory foam is usually one of the easiest mattresses to custom order if you have an especially odd sized bed. It also works great on any adjustable bed.


The Memory Foam has excellent characteristics with its ability to respond to changes in temperature and its capacity to reduce pressure by spreading the weight evenly over a larger surface area. The visco-elastic nature of Memory Foam Mattress helps to disperse accumulated pressure away from the vertebrae, and alleviate the pressure placed upon areas like hips and shoulders which often leads to discomfort and tossing and turning.


Nowadays memory foam is also used in pillows, positional sleep aids, office furniture, automobile seat padding, footwear, infant cribs, car seats, wheel chair cushions, computer carrying cases and many more. There are a lot of memory foam manufacturers that have emerged and it has become really tough to decide which type of memory foam mattress you should buy. Also, a consumer finds himself caught in a plethora of jargons used by these manufacturers to sell their product.


There are a few things that may help you in deciding the right type of memory foam mattress. No doubt, selecting the right kind of memory foam manufacturer such is important. The right type of memory foam mattress will serve you for years to come. Some of the most imperative features to check include density, type, personal comfort, and warranty.


It is an important factor in deciding the right type of memory foam mattress. Not all mattresses that claim to be memory foam are sensitive to temperature. It is this feature that makes memory foam mattress so attractive and comfortable. A temperature sensitive memory foam mattress softens up when in contact with body and gets firmer in cooler environment. This offers the gradual sinking and contouring you should experience when laying on a memory foam mattress.


Density, the weight of the foam per square foot, is perhaps the best measure of durability and quality. Remember, this is only a measure of the top layer of actual memory foam. Higher density foam will provide better support, be more durable, and decompress less over time. Typically, the “quality” number for memory foam is recognized as 5 lbs.

Another quality of mattresses is the ability to regain its memory. The memory foam should slowly return to the original height within 30 seconds of you getting up. Typically mattress depressions of more than .5” are viewed as defective. This is one major difference you will notice with quality memory foam is that you will not have big dips in the area where you sleep with a couple years. Instead memory foam will continue to maintain its shape for years. There are many more radical differences to be found between memory foam mattresses and other conventional mattresses.


The key to a good night’s sleep often lies in the type of mattress you are sleeping on. Having a good and comfortable mattress will ensure a good night’s sleep and gives you the energy you need for the rest of the day. Through several researches and studies, it has been proven that deep sleep greatly helps a person to overcome his day-to-day problems more effectively and successfully.

In the modern era when a person often lives a stressful life style the value of deep and relaxing sleep cannot be underestimated.


Buying a quality mattress is very important if you want to enjoy a full night’s rest. There are many brands and various types of mattresses are available in market. However, choosing the best is not as overwhelming as it may first seem. You can try out many mattresses at local shopping centers and browse thousands of pages of research and reviews online. You can go through number of market trends, sales, customer feed backs, and professional recommendations to aid in your decision. As the technology advances to next level, newer and better mattresses are coming in to stores and homes worldwide. Though buying the best mattress can be a daunting purchase, remember you are investing in your sleep, health and comfort, and that a quality mattress will last you for years to come.

The Memory”>http://www.astrabeds.com?”>Memory Foam Mattress provides a comfortable, relaxed and undisturbed night’s sleep that a tired body desires after a day’s work. Mattresses”>http://www.astrabeds.com?”>Mattresses are ideal for a good night?s sleep.

Laptop and Notebook Buying Guide

A laptop is the ideal replacement for your desktop computer. The greatest advantage of a laptop is its portability. Unlike desktop computers, you can easily move a laptop around your home, carry it to work or class and take it with you when you travel. Laptops are a big investment, so before buying one, you should consider many factors like the manufacturer, performance and features.


What kind of laptop user are you?


A home user wants all the features of a desktop PC in the form of a notebook. If you are a home user, then choose a notebook which is easy to carry and comes with the most basic computer applications. Students should opt for an affordable laptop which is light and durable. Frequent fliers need slim notebook models with long-lasting batteries. A business user should purchase a laptop with plenty of hard disk space and advanced security features while a gamer needs a fast processor and the latest graphics card.


What are the different kinds of laptop computers available?


Laptops for Entertainment:


Multimedia laptops are always more expensive and heavier than your standard model. These laptops come with a powerful processor, abundant memory and a large hard drive. You can use these laptops as a mobile DVD player, MP3 jukebox and a digital photo album. If you buy a TV tuner card, you can even use your multimedia notebook as a television set. These notebooks are ideal for PC gaming.


Laptops for Business:


Laptops especially designed for business use are ultra portable. These laptops are durable and more secure than the basic laptop. They are best suited for consumers who are always on the move. A good business laptop should offer a fingerprint reader or SmartCard support to prevent data theft. These notebooks usually have advanced computer applications and wireless capabilities, so you can work even when you are away from your desk.


Laptops for Home:


The home user typically uses a laptop for checking mail and browsing the web. These laptops perform general tasks. A high speed processor is an unnecessary luxury and tends to be wasted on most home users. Opt for a notebook with at least a 14-inch screen and a comfortable keyboard. These laptops are generally heavy, weighing more than 4 kg at times. Their average battery life is less than three hours.


What constitutes a good laptop?


Ergonomics:


If you are going to use your laptop extensively, then you need to be comfortable with the keys. Try a laptop with slightly larger keys to avoid straining your fingers from typing. Most laptops come with a touch pad or a tracking pointer instead of a mouse. If you are a PC gamer, buy a separate mouse which can keep up with the fast-paced action on screen.


Operating Systems:


The Windows XP Media Center Edition is a good operating system for entertainment laptops. It makes optimal use of multimedia features like TV tuners, radio tuners and media players. If you are a professional who prefers Apple notebooks but are concerned about compatibility, check out the dual boot models by Apple that allow you to install and run Windows as well as Mac OS X. If you prefer PCs, Microsoft Vista is an ideal alternative to Windows XP. Vista comes in several editions, including Vista Home Basic and Vista Home Premium for the home user, Vista Business for the professional and Vista Ultimate for the best of both worlds.


Memory and Storage:


All data and applications are stored in the RAM (random access memory). Many laptops commonly use 256 MB of RAM. Most business laptops and entertainment laptops come with 512 MB or more of RAM. The more RAM you buy, the more data you can store.


The hard drive stores all programs and files. For the average home user, a 20 GB hard drive will more than suffice. If you buy a laptop for entertainment or business purposes, a 60 GB hard drive will better serve your needs. Some entertainment laptops even have multiple hard drives for better performance. Hard drives come with different speeds. Most laptop hard drives have a speed of 5,400 rpm. However, faster hard drives go up to 7,200 rpm.


Display:


The size of a laptop is based on the size of the screen. Screen size starts as small as 10.6 inches and goes up to 20 inches diagonally. Most laptops have an LCD monitor. However, if you are using your laptop for CAD, a CRT monitor will serve you just as well, if not better. The screen resolution determines the crispness of your image. A 12.1 inch display uses WXGA resolutions (1,280 by 800). A 14 or 15 inch display typically uses WSXGA+ (1680 by 1,050), although a small number of notebook computers use WUXGA (1,920 by 1,200) instead.


Processor:


It is more difficult to upgrade a notebooks processor than it is to upgrade a desktop computer. For this reason, you should buy a processor with a speed that will best suit your use. Also, it is wise to choose a processor with less battery consumption. Processors with 1.4 to 1.6 Ghz are preferred by most users.


Battery:


Lithium ion batteries are commonly used in laptops. The average battery life is about 3 hours. It takes around 75 minutes to fully recharge a lithium ion battery.


Graphics Card:


A graphics card, sometimes referred to as a video adapter, is responsible for generating the images you see on a laptops display. For businessmen who need to do lot of presentations, a graphics card containing 32 or 64 MB of dedicated memory is the right choice. There are also specially designed cards for gaming. These cards are expensive and should be avoided unless you require excellent graphics.


USB Ports:


Laptop computers come with at least one USB port so that you can connect peripherals to the notebook. Recent models have a FireWire connection that lets you transfer digital information from camcorders or MP3 players.


Optical Drives:


Most laptops come with either a CD-ROM (compact disc, read-only memory), a CD-RW (compact disc, re-writeable) or a DVD-ROM (digital versatile disc, read-only-memory). The DVD+RW/+R with CD-RW is a combination drive which will read a CD or a DVD and write data to a DVD as well.


Modem:


Laptops are available with integrated modems for dial-up connections, Ethernet ports for cable internet and DSL and wireless modems for Wi-Fi connections. Many business laptops also have a cellular wireless modem so you can browse at broadband speeds with just a mobile phone signal.

Bob Shanty has been researching and writing articles that help shoppers make more
educated buying decisions on laptops and notebooks for online shopping
mega store BIGshop for years. For more articles by Bob please visit http://www.bigshop.com.au.

Five Important Tips for Buying an External Hard Drive

So you’ve finally decided to buy an external hard drive as a backup option for your computer. This is a great choice for you because you’re making backing up your data faster and easier than you could ever have imagined. You’re also making your data far more portable in larger quantities than before.

You’ll no longer be limited to storing a few hundred megabytes or even several gigabytes. Nope. Now you can look forward to portable and reliable storage capacities ranging into terabytes. That frustrating desktop computer or network file server backup job just got a whole lot easier.

If you’ve never bought an external hard disk before then there’s a few pointers here that may help to have on your shopping list before you go and make that final purchase.

1. Buy A Brand
Do yourself a huge favor and buy a brand name that you easily recognize. Sure these may cost a little more than brand x but with computer accessories like this you really do get what you pay for. If a Maxtor 100GB external drive costs $200 and another brand x 100GB drive costs $80 why do you think that is? Because the company likes you? Because they like making smaller profits? No it’s because it’s a cheaper drive made with inferior parts that’s going to break a lot sooner than you might expect.

The other aspect of sticking with a brand is your warranty. For example Maxtor, Western Digital and Iomega are all reliable companies and well known for their external hard disks. If something goes wrong with your drive you can have it fixed. With brand x you’ll probably not even be able to find an email address that you can contact the parent company on. Is saving a few dollars worth that risk?

2. Google It
Whatever brand or model you decide on make sure you do some research before purchasing. Always, always Google the exact brand and model of the drive you’re considering buying. Look for reviews and especially any feedback on how reliable a drive is. You’ll be very surprised to find that some companies have particularly bad reputations in terms of equipment reliability and what’s known as the “click of death” in the external hard drive industry.

Spend time in Google checking out your prospective purchase. You’ll be glad that you did.

3. Connectivity
When it comes to external hard drives you’ll need to choose carefully when selecting your connection types. Your external hard drive will support either USB or Firewire. Firewire is the fastest option available at the moment but your computer may not support this. The vast majority of modern computers will, however, feature a USB port.

The next question now is what type of USB port do you have – USB 1.0 or 2.0? If your computer only has a USB 1.0 port then your external hard drive is going to transfer data VERY slowly. USB 2.0 is the minimum you should consider as connection options for both your computer and your external hard drive. If you don’t have a USB 2.0 port (also called HiSpeed USB) on your computer you may need to get a USB 2.0 card fitted.

4. Speed
Now of course we need to talk about speed. The faster your hard drive operates the faster data will get transferred to your computer and vice versa. Without boggling you with comptuer jargon there’s a couple of technical things you need to include on your shopping list.

Seek time – this needs to be 10ms (milliseconds) or less

Buffer size – more is better. Get a drive with at least a 4MB buffer.

RPM – higher is better. 5400rpm as a minimum. 7200rpm being preferred.

Stick to the above basic pointers and you’ll do just fine.

5. Size
This is the simple part of the whole “buying an external hard drive” equation. Buy as much as you can afford. If you can afford 100GB then get it. However if you can afford 200GB then get it. Then again if you scraped together a few dollars more you could afford 300GB then do it.

This isn’t a sales pitch. Far from it. There is simply no such thing as having too much data storage space. The 160GB drive that I have here was filled up in a little under a month. Currently a terabye option sounds good for my future needs.

Always add 50% to your data storage requirements. Honestly. You’ll thanks yourself within the first 90 days of buying your external drive.

Hopefully now you’ll be better prepared for purchasing your new external hard drive. It’s one of the best purchases you’ll ever make.

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